The Newcomers

Two looks by Marc Jacobs, 1987


UNLIKE PARIS, WHERE a beginning designer can set up shop with little more than a song, a New York neophyte better have at least a million dollars in his back pocket from either a benevolent backer or the bank. In Manhattan, business comes first: the rent of work space, payroll, fabric costs. Lines of credit are necessary before creativity is even considered. Despite these hurdles, there are any number of interesting new names emerging. David Cameron is perhaps foremost among them. With only a slight bit of Seventh Avenue experience, but with the requisite financial backing, he opened on his own two years ago. Since then, he has had ups and downs, but the ups have been very high. The press, retailers and his peers have praised and rewarded him for his racy, modern, expensive yet very well-made fashions. Some others are Marc Jacobs, an energetic young man bent on making his name for inexpensive fashions. Isaia is already a hit with stores for his cheap and chic designs, usually made of stretch fabrics. Isabel Toledo and the team of Norbury and Osuna experiment with interesting shapes. Patricia Clyne knows well how to cut and drape a sinuous line, while Carmelo Pomodoro is emerging as a solid sure-fire sportswear stylist in the Anne Klein tradition.

– Excerpt from THE AMERICANS WHO LEAD by CARRIE DONOVAN, NYT, June 28, 1987

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