Tag Archives: 1987
“The Wilderness” in Sportswear International, photographed by Bob Frame.
Cotton twill for cold weather and outdoors American classics with a touch of colorblocking and contrast fabrics, layered with the chunky cozy knits in shades of cream — a rather nice mood for the winter season.
UNLIKE PARIS, WHERE a beginning designer can set up shop with little more than a song, a New York neophyte better have at least a million dollars in his back pocket from either a benevolent backer or the bank. In Manhattan, business comes first: the rent of work space, payroll, fabric costs. Lines of credit are necessary before creativity is even considered. Despite these hurdles, there are any number of interesting new names emerging. David Cameron is perhaps foremost among them. With only a slight bit of Seventh Avenue experience, but with the requisite financial backing, he opened on his own two years ago. Since then, he has had ups and downs, but the ups have been very high. The press, retailers and his peers have praised and rewarded him for his racy, modern, expensive yet very well-made fashions. Some others are Marc Jacobs, an energetic young man bent on making his name for inexpensive fashions. Isaia is already a hit with stores for his cheap and chic designs, usually made of stretch fabrics. Isabel Toledo and the team of Norbury and Osuna experiment with interesting shapes. Patricia Clyne knows well how to cut and drape a sinuous line, while Carmelo Pomodoro is emerging as a solid sure-fire sportswear stylist in the Anne Klein tradition.
– Excerpt from THE AMERICANS WHO LEAD by CARRIE DONOVAN, NYT, June 28, 1987
Vass made her reputation with crochets and handmade or handloomed knits, and imaginative, functional clothes in simplified shapes and subtle colorings, usually in her preferred natural fibers. She is recognized by retailers and the press as a highly creative, original designer. From the beginning, her aim has been to make modern clothes for modern women and men.
A graduate of the University of Wisconsin, majoring in philosophy, she did graduate work in aesthetics, was curator at the Museum of Modern Art, an editor at Harry N. Abrams, publisher of art books. With no formal fashion training, she got into designing in the early 1970’s when two of her concerns intersected.
First, she was bothered by the plight of women with salable skills but no way to sell them– specifically, women who either could not work away from home or did not want the confinement of offices or factories. Second, she was convinced there was a market for handmade articles of good quality.
– ANNE STAGEMEYER for Fairchild Publications’s WHO’S WHO IN FASHION, 2nd edition
CALVIN KLEIN’S AMERICAN TOUR DE FORCE
by Bernadine Morris
CHEERS, bravos and thunderous applause greeted Calvin Klein as he walked down the runway in a gray double-breasted suit after the best fall collection shown on either side of the Atlantic. It was brilliantly thought out and thoroughly modern, and it sported no extraneous detail. Woven into a fresh composition were all the separate threads that contributed to the widely heralded change fashion is undergoing for the new season; the result was enchanting. The show was the kind of tour de force that makes people look at fashion in a new way. Continue reading