Tag Archives: 1991

Donatella, 1991

Dressed in her brother Gianni’s designs, Donatella Versace and close friend, Elton John make quite the entrace.

image from Life Magazine

Kiss Them For Me

In 1991, even Siouxsie Sioux and her Banshees traded in their cynical gloom for positive thinking with an upbeat dance tempo and a billboard top 1oo hit.

Exuberance, 2011

Oliviero Toscani’s talents for Esprit simulated a Utopia within the brand’s own visual culture, suggesting a better world, a fresher one at least, for their customers to consider.

Spring 11 looks by Jil Sander, Missoni, Prada, and Matthew Ames

The Spring 2011 collections have revealed a similar outlook, not surprising that it was prevalent mostly in the Milan collections. Clear color, bold graphics and prints, an abstracted silhouette, and a heavy dose of humor are new ways to move on from the incorrectly labeled “minimalism” that has defined fashion in the past season. Of course the look is clean and pared down, but it finds enrichment with an entirely different vocabulary, an entirely modern one, actually.

Jean Louis Scherrer Haute Couture, 1991

Versace Haute Couture, 1991

Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture, 1991

There’s been several takes on optimism and humor, Schiaparelli, Capucci, Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Moschino, and Isaac Mizrahi have all given their celebratory spin on life, adding to an evolving discourse. But its most pertinent iteration is perhaps in the Haute Couture of the very early 90’s, just as the recession challenged its relevance and provoked it to come up with something to say, that despite its excess it still had a message worth taking note of. As much as fashion needs its palate cleansed it cannot deny the wonders that a cheerful perspective and certain amount of richness can grant, even if it is only laughing so that it won’t cry.


Excerpt from “Clothes for Fall Soothe Rather Than Shock”

By Bernadine Morris

Too much sobriety can be numbing, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana made sure this didn’t happen. The principals in Dolce & Gabbana turned fashion inside out.

They gave corsets, panty girdles and bras new meaning as outerwear. These were paved in rhinestones and big multicolored stones or were made of fabric that looked like Jackson Pollock had dribbled paint on them.

The corsets were decorated with skating skirts made of black fox tails or layers of chiffon. They were sheltered by ostrich boas or fake leopard capes and for the new propriety were worn over black tights and had turtleneck tops.

Bracelets of colored stones climbed up the arms. Hadn’t Madonna and Jean-Paul Gaultier showed the way? Not for an entire collection. Where do you wear these things? Late-night clubs or swimming pools, of course. Are these clothes for liberated women or for sex objects? Topic for a seminar. Either way, the show provided a break in a serious season.

Versace, 1991

Gianni Versace was the scion for excess in the 90′s, his Latin-Mediterranean sensuality updating the past decade’s exuberance for a cyber punk- hyper visual world. In the face of minimalism, Gianni excelled at juggling a graphic mélangeof pattern and texture that felt current, seductive, humorous, and relevant. And right now, it’s a current in the air…

– originally posted on nueve musas