Tag Archives: Peter LindberghImage
These aren’t the looks we’ve come to associate with Jil Sander, with their layers and touches of “oriental” opulence. But then maybe the idea that Sander has always been a minimalist stronghold, rather than a modern one, is really only a recent invention. Modernity can be interpreted in different ways and in the 1990’s it meant minimalism. But in a different world, or in another era (past or future), it could mean something else.
In 1980’s London, Hamnett reconsidered futurist fashion; opting to design against rather than into the angst and fears of the era. Designing with a distinct language derived from army surplus and dance wear, it would actually be her ubiquitous slogan t-shirts, “shirts with words”, which would become her most visible contribution to British fashion. In hindsight you might think that such displays were/are naive and incapable of catalyzing effective change, at most a clever technique for cultural propaganda. Certainly, in regards to the tragedy that seems to engulf the world, they project an uneasy amount of levity which, although fun, is ultimately pointless. But then this is where intent matters: that Hamnett insisted that her clothes could in fact become a vehicle for the political, that clothes had that ability express those ideas, that a radical paradigm could be filtered into a garment — maybe that is something to reconsider as well.
“If people believe they can’t make a stand, they can at least wear one.”