Tag Archives: Spring Summer 2011

Christophe Lemaire, 2011

Christophe Lemaire Spring/Summer 2011*

Lacoste Spring/Summer 2011

When it was announced that Christophe Lemaire was to succeed Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermes the reaction was met with a confusion the belies the lack of attention that can sometimes be paid amidst fashion hype. The veteran designer’s appointment was scoffed at due to his work with Lacoste, immediately dismissing him as a polo shirt designer. Actually, Lemaire’s work at Lacoste has been profound though quiet; demonstrating the ability to elevate what could possibly be one of the most banal yet recognized sportswear brands into something directional and relevant. In the ten years that Lemaire has been at the helm he has shown the fullest potential of the brand, reimagining it in his own utopian vision with tinges of Andre Courreges, Kenzo Takada, and Oliviero Toscani. When Lemaire did look to the brand’s heritage he did so with a studied understanding of its inherent modernism, extracting an essence that went far beyond commercial prerogatives.

But it probably wasn’t his ability to sync up a conservative French brand known for mundane sportswear with a relevant contemporary mood that got him the new job; it was probably the work Lemaire has been designing under his own name for the past 20 years. Lemaire has taken a quiet yet no less directional approach to fashion, leaning away from trend cycles and any other fashion discourse, instead pursuing something entirely unique. He’s not a designer that will be inspired by an ostentatious theme; rather he seems to be more interested in how people actually live and designing ways to improve it. Lemaire is genuinely interested in classicism, creating clothes that will not age, and if they do, they will age gracefully. And his clothes are universal, defying any specific cultural attachment or generation, so non-referential that they seem to be cleansing in taste if not in spirit. All this considered, it is clear that Lemaire’s position at Hermes marks a new direction for the esteemed house and for luxury in general. Where exactly will it go? We’ll find out soon enough.

*Since posting I learned that the host of this website does not allow the video to be played due to audio copyrights. Please view the video in youtube.com. My apologies. -Jeremy

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MATTHEW AMES, 2011

photos by Jeremy Lewis

Visions of Tom Brigance, Bonnie Cashin, Clarepotter, and Claire McCarrdell, Matthew Ames continues for Spring 2011 in the very best tradition of the American avant-garde.

Marc Jacobs, 2011

image from sightsandwhispers

Had a quick peek at Marc Jacobs online and couldn’t help but think of model/muse/Warhol superstar Donna Jordan and her spritely/witchy/trashy glamour.

PATRIK ERVELL, 2011

photos by Jeremy Lewis

Backpacks and ball caps, Ervell riffs on boyhood naivety through his own sartorial subversion.